Making  tracks pg 1.

Track can be bent by hand, or by bending the wire around something. This is a good method
for getting the corner started. Once you get a bend into the wire it is easier to adjust. You can
use tericotta potter, it comes in many sizes, or use black plastic pipe from your local hardware
store. They'll usually sell it by the foot.

I bend nearly
all my track with my hands. I shape each curve by hand because I have total control
over how tight or wide the turn will be. Sometimes I finish a section of track after
it has been installed onto the sculpture. If I were to not bend my track by
hand, then I would never be able to get in there to bend the rest of the section.
My hand does get tired from bending all day. I usually use 1/8" for track. I have
seen 5/32" (eddie boes) used which can be bent by hand as well. I can even bend 3/16" but
it helps to have leather gloves on when I bend that size wire. I have actually found
that bending the tracks after the ends have been butt welded works best. It is better
because the track will fit perfectly the first time without having to keep checking that it fits
the space you are leading the track through.


I start making the track by attaching the two ends of the
track rails together with two track spacers before I begin to bend the track into the path it will take.
This keeps the track in place with much, much less effort than trying to hold both pieces in place with
just your hands. After bending the corner or turn that I need, I add spacers to that corner. This keeps the
wire in place so I know I can bend the next corner easily. The best way to test if your corner is going to
work is to attach it to the sculpture. Roll the ball from the top and see if it "climbs" the corner, or makes
it just fine. All final adjustments to the track should be made after the track is installed. You will not know
how fast the marble will actually be traveling until it is installed. Then you can make final adjustments to the
corner. Once you get experienced you can "eyeball" most of the corners, and be pretty close.

Keeping the speed of the marble low is very important. The faster a ball is traveling the more sensitive
it will be to vibration on the track, and any imperfections to the track itself. The ball will also exert a lot
more exergy as it rolls through a turn, making it come off the track easier. Very sharp corners are very
hard to get just right. The best thing to do is let the spacing of the track be as wide a possible to keep
the ball well seating between the rails. Smooth track and smooth banking will be key here too.
If you don't want to mess with banking the corners, then just use some guard rail on the outside of the corner.

The single biggest challenge you will face when making and weld, or solder joint is
keeping your parts from moving. This sounds simple but it can be quite frustrating,
especially when you are making a critical weld that is hard to get to. Get lots of clamps,
alligator clips, and maybe a magnetic posable arm for taller situations.
Keeping the rails properly spaced while welding is important, but can be
changed later if needed. 




Turns are the hardest part of making track. It's always best to make as many turns and track as
you can off the sculpture. Then attach connect your new section to the old. Add a couple
supports and then bend any remaining track that is left hanging... : )
This track looks good, but it will probably still need more banking and bending to
keep the marble running on the steel track. The marble comes off the track
very easy with corners like these. It really depends on the speed of the ball.



This is one of my track clamps. I use it almost every time I make a weld on some track.
This clamp was machined with a MILL by my friend Bill, who is a machinist. I would tell you how this
 clamp is built...if I knew. I do know that it holds the track at the right spacing, keeps
the rails parallel and most importantly keeps the track from moving while I am making that very weld.
Track Clamps don't have to be this nice. In fact I used to use picture hanging eyes
screwed into wooden dowels. Anything to keep the track the right distance will
work well. Once the spacers are on, they can be bent in and out a little if needed anyway.


At the bottom center you can see where the track is welded together. They call this
a "butt weld". In my experience it is the hardest weld to get just right. It's the hardest
because it is VERY important. If it is not perfectly welded, the marble will make a click
sound as it rolls over that spot. It can also be a weak spot if not welded well.
I advise that both ends are sanded flat, I use an angle grinder, and then join them up.
Since both ends are flat they will lay against each other nicely. Hit it with the welder, and
you should have a good welded joint. 



Here are several track clamps taken apart. I have both
7/8" and 1" spacing. Your spacing will be different depending
on what size marble/ball you use.

 
 
To hold everything together I had to use 6 clamps. It is better to get
the shape you want before adding spacers. After you weld, that spot
will be weaker than the rest of the track. Shaping can still be done after
spacers are added, but most track bending should be done first, especially
with a loop d loop. 



Here is the finished loop installed on sculpture #64.
This loop d' loop can be see at:
"Coolest Toys on Earth"
314 Main Street
Milford, OH.
C'mon on in and see it!

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